Farewell to India

Six weeks in India.

What a ride.

Indian top riders Somewhere between week three and week four I forgot I was visiting. Somewhere between week four and week five I forgot I’d have to leave.

But here we are. Six weeks later.

Ish India Gate

India Gate, Delhi

I’ve never been anywhere like this. So real.

In six weeks I’ve watched people in every conceivable part of the human condition. I’ve peered into backrooms and watched them live out their lives on sidewalks. I’ve been privileged to watch them worship, celebrate, mourn and sacrifice; the desperately poor and the nouveau riche and the ever wealthy.  I’ve seen street people make do with no indoor plumbing and heard tales of 27-story buildings that house five families on prime city real estate.

Rajasthan

Rajasthan

I’ve seen the storybook quality of castles and forts. I’ve heard about the lives of the maharajahs and maharanis and I’ve lived like one. I’ve met village kids happiest with a cricket bat, laughed as my children danced in the streets with “untouchables,”  met people who will stop at nothing to show you a kindness even when it might mean that they have less for themselves. We’ve offered sandwiches to children who ran and protected them like golden nuggets as they ate,  met strangers who are now such fierce friends that no boundary will hold them and heard sales pitches at my car window.

“Purse, lady? Flowers? Bangles? I dance?”

backwaters kerala

Backwaters, Kerala

I’ve grown too.

Where once I was timid I’ve grown bolder. I can cross Colaba Causeway without fear and haggle over a pair of sunglasses with such ferocity I hardly recognize myself.

I’ve realized things about myself I’m not sure I’m proud of as well.

I can really eat.

I can eat naan until I’m sweating butter.

I can eat things I can’t pronounce and ask for more with a  full mouth and a jabbing finger.

I can say “no” too. Over and over again.

I can do it while walking between plastic sheeted homes and dirty children, while hands are pawing at my legs, while big-eyed babies are leaning out of the hands of women claiming to be relatives and begging for rupees.

India begging baby

I think it would take a lifetime to move beyond being a tourist here.

There’s too much back story, too much history you aren’t a part of.  Your name alone sets you apart. You haven’t been born into a system of castes or  or had your future pre-determined by your forefathers’ occupation.

India boys explore

So much to see. So much to learn

Culture prevents you from truly understanding the  hidden meaning in a head bob (Is it a “yes” or a “no?”) or the deep, deep history in every grain of sand, every golden brick, every turban wrapped just so.

How could a foreigner ever learn the way people don’t just look you in the eye here but stare unflinchingly; sizing you up, making you make sense.  The questions so intrusive, so quickly.  “What do you do? How much money do you make? What did you come here?”

Varanasi It grows on you.

Somewhere along the line you settle down and settle in and that’s when the magic happens.

But it’s hard on your heart this India.

Ganges

Ganges

Quickly and quietly working its way in and then taking hold like the hands of a tuk tuk driver on his steering wheel in the suburbs of Mumbai; sticking like the way your meals are beginning to show on your thighs.

And then one day it’s week 6 and  you’re remembering the train rides and the funny guides and the smiles of the kids and you’re wondering where the time went.

smiling boy india

Tonight we’re on to  new adventures. By the time you read this we’ll be in Dubai – a magical city full of excitement and wildest dreams. The kids are ready for days of water parks and kids clubs but I think India and our experiences there will stay with us for a long time.

I will be back India. The seduction is complete.India flag

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{ 20 comments… add one }

Maija @ Maija's Mommy Moments March 5, 2012, 2:53 PM

And right here… with this post… you’ve begun my yearning for India!

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Heather Greenwood Davis March 6, 2012, 1:34 AM

My job here is done. :)

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Colleen Friesen March 5, 2012, 3:26 PM

Oh Heather. I LOVE India for all the reasons you just articulated. What a crazy and fabulous place. Glad you’re going to go back. I’ve been three times and it’s never enough. 

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Heather Greenwood Davis March 6, 2012, 1:33 AM

I knew it would be a big experience, I just didn’t expect it would be so deeply affecting, you know? 

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Colleen Friesen March 6, 2012, 2:27 AM

Deeply affecting is the like trying to suggest that the tip of the iceberg might be suggestive of something bigger. 
India plays with our minds and spirits like nothing else can. I couldn’t really articulate what was happening to me until long after it was over, and even then…I’m not sure. People just need to go and to go for as long as possible and then to sit at home and reflect on what the hell happened. It’s beyond thinking…

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Amy March 5, 2012, 7:32 PM

I’ve never been to India, but this post made me think, if Heather and her family can do it, I can do it! Or, maybe one day we’ll do it together. Yay!

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Heather Greenwood Davis March 6, 2012, 1:33 AM

We could technically take you along Amy. There are so many places in the world where admission is by height, you’d be like half price at most places! ;)

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Becca March 5, 2012, 11:35 PM

I always wishing to try to live in different country and culture. It seems its hard to socialize and get along with people that have different culture. After reading your post, i realize if you can make it.  I can also make it!!

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Heather Greenwood Davis March 6, 2012, 1:32 AM

I’m so glad you feel that way Becca. At our base we have so much in common and nothing makes those friendships form faster than understanding where someone comes from. Hope you do get a chance to see the world. 

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Kathy Buckworth March 6, 2012, 6:27 AM

You’re such a talented writer Heather. Just loved this post. When’s the book coming out????

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Heather March 17, 2012, 10:50 AM

Thanks! From your lips to my fingers and a book publisher’s wallet :)

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Sarah March 6, 2012, 8:08 AM

Amazing and moving Heather! I love reading about your adventures.

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Heather March 17, 2012, 10:50 AM

Thanks Sarah!

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Meah March 7, 2012, 10:36 AM

Looking forward to reading about your adventures in Dubai!

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Heather March 17, 2012, 10:49 AM

coming right up….:)

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Sharon March 10, 2012, 7:17 PM

Thanks. I get a glimpse of the world through your eyes.

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Mikki99 March 14, 2012, 9:50 PM

Loved India but checking out Southern India is the highlight but I’d love to have a Naan like the one I ate in Agra or the Masala Dosa in Varanasi.. Heres to India and Mahatma Ghandis vision…

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Sheena March 15, 2012, 4:01 AM

Great blog, Heather.  I’m not sure I’m ready for that heart-rending India and the poverty etc although my husband would love to visit there.

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Heather March 17, 2012, 10:49 AM

Thanks Sheena. I bet you’d love it. It’s not every minute that tugs at your heart. It’s just that those moments are unpredictable.

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Jesica Mateo-Adegbaju March 20, 2012, 1:46 AM

Hi guys! Its been a long time since I ran into you at Office Depot in Markham. Jayna mentioned to me about your trip of a life time..I am so jealous.!!! Oh my, the boys have grown up and it seems like yesterday when Mr. Ethan was in our preschool room at Bright Horizons. Im so proud of you and Ishmael giving the boys the opportunity to travel the world.  From now on  I will be travelling along with you for the rest of your journey. Big hugs and hi-5’s to the Ethan and Cameron.

Take care and God bless,
Jesica

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